The turn of July and August is the best season to climb the Pamir giant: Lenin’s Pike. Snow masses from spring are usually already melted, while the crevasses are not yet open enough to make climbing difficult. That is why almost every year, at the turn of July and August, the BluEmu expedition goes to Kyrgyzstan with the intention of reaching the seven-thousand-meter peak located in Pamir.
So it was this time. This year our trip was exceptionally large. Nine participants took part in it. They were led by three guides: two from Poland and one from Kyrgyzstan.
We started our visit to Kyrgyzstan by visiting the colorful and exotic city of Osh in the south of the country. From here we went by car to the base at Lenin’s Peak in the area of Polyana Lugowa (Onion Meadow, because of the wild onion growing there) at 3600m above sea level. After a few days of acclimatization, hindered by rainy and stormy weather, we moved the center of our activity to camp I, which is basically a well-equipped advanced base camp, at 4400m above sea level. From there, we made two acclimatization ascents, gaining altitude gradually, in accordance with the principle “clmb high, sleep low”. During the longest four-day trip, we climbed Razdielnaja Peak (6148m above sea level), we also had an overnight stay in the highest camp 3 located just below its peak. Now all that was left to do was to wait for the weather window to allow the summit push.
Unfortunately, the weather conditions this season also in Pamirs were not easy. Ultimately, Lenin’s Pik, unfortunately, did not let us on its peak. Snowfall turned out to be too much. Our guides, who have been going to the top for several years, do not remember such a season. This year the days of nice weather could be counted on the fingers of one hand.
We are coming back next year. Hoping for better conditions.